Where to Go - Cartagena, Civil War Air- Raid Shelter and Museum

Refugio Museo de la Guerra Civil

 Looking at the serenity and beauty of the port in Cartagena today, it's hard to envisage the destruction that the city suffered during the years of the Spanish Civil War, between 1936 and 1939.

 

It's a time that many prefer to forget, and interested visitors will often be met with silence when asking questions about this episode in history, the pain caused by  wrenches in family units still raw today.

 

The Civil war started on July 18^th, 1936, when a sector of the army attempted a military coup, following a period of economic and social unrest, agitated by massive economic recession.

Even though Cartagena was in the grip of economic misery, caused by a drastic downturn in the mining industry which had rebuilt Cartagena following the civil unrest of the 1870's, the city remained loyal to the government, and became a vital Republican stronghold, as the home of the Republican Fleet and disembarkation point for vital military supplies and food,  as well as being a major munitions manufacturing centre.

This made it a target for Nationalist forces, but the military defenses installed around the city, which has been at the centre of many armed conflicts throughout the last 2000 years,  made it a difficult target to capture, the easiest route to breaking its resolution and defences via the air.

A sophisticated battery of 44 defense elements protected the city , with the mighty Vickers guns, the most advanced technologically of their time, and which can still be seen at Cabo Tinosa and other batteries around the city rendering direct  approach a dangerous and foolhardy option.

Although anti aircraft guns managed to force the planes to fly at greater heights, which limited the accuracy of the bombers,  Cartagena was targeted mercilessly throughout the Civil War on dozens of occasions, the worst night of all being the "four hour bombing" on the 25^th November 1936 when a rain of 250kg devices blasted the Arsenal and Railway Station, followed by hundreds of 1kg incendiary devices which started fires throughout the city and caused massive damage.

 

The people of Cartagena went underground, building shelters in which they could hide throughout the war, and this one in Calle Gisbert offered refuge to up to 5,500 people.

 

This museum, built within the original structure of the shelter, gives an insight into the daily lives of the people who lived through this period, and how they survived.

 

Little details, such as the notice which bans shops from increasing the prices of their goods, and the sign showing graphically what you should and shouldn't do in the event of an air raid , together with the glorious Stalinesque Posters calling the men of Cartagena to raise their shovels and build air raid shelters bring the period alive, and little "sets " deal with the issues of how children went to school, found their entertainment and ate. Make sure you press the button to switch the radio on!

 

One feature which is particularly moving are the real life accounts of the citizens themselves. Take the time to listen through- they're all translated into English for you, as there are some real gems.

The story that stood out for us was the old man who talked with a cheeky grin about how they fooled the Nationalist forces, recounting how a field was filled with poles outside of Cartagena, rigged up with lights which were switched on when warning of an aircraft approach was received. The townspeople would switch off the lights of Cartagena , light up the field and the bombs would all fall in the middle of nowhere, saving lives and homes.

This probably accounts for the amount of bombs that still turn up today.

 In the last few months we've written about two, one showing up when workmen were re-modelling Calle Real, and the other discovered by a diver in El Portus. Apparently they turn up fairly frequently, and if you want to see a fantastic selection of projectiles and armaments, head for the Museo Militar which has an enormous collection.

 

 

 The projection of photographs showing Cartagena before the war and after is also very moving, a tragic waste of not only life, but the destruction of a beautiful city.

 

 

A visit to the museum ends in the gallery of peace, a call by the children of the city to learn from the past and move forward in hope and peace.

 

 

 

 

 

Practicalities

Opening Times and Charges - Refugio Museo del la Guerra Civil, Cartagena

Opening Times

Low Season(3^rd Nov-31^st December)

10-5.30, uninterrupted, Tuesday- Sunday

 

In between TBC

 

High Season( 1^st July- 13^th September)

10-2.30 and 4-8.30pm

 

Entry Fee

3.50 Standard/ 2.50 Reduced

This is part of the Puerto de Culturas sites, so can be visited with the abono voucher.

 

Disability Access - Refugio Museo de la Guerra Civil, Cartagena

Accessability

Access is via the Panoramic lift, so is no problem at all for wheelchair users, in fact this is one of the best attractions in Cartagena for those with mobility issues, as everything is pretty level and there are no steps anywhere.

 Location

Calle Gisbert, by the panoramic lift which you can see sticking up for miles around.

( If you're not in a hurry, it's fun to take the lift up after visiting the museum and walk down, right past the Roman Theatre. It's only a euro for the lift, so doesn't add much to the cost of the visit. Click Panoramic lift for route and info.)

Would we recommend it?

Looking at the list of sites to visit in Cartagena, we will confess that this sounded pretty dull, but it's actually one of our favourites now, not because there's a vast amount to see, but the humanity of what is there and the message it sends is pretty humbling, and this opened our eyes to Cartagenas' past. It's fine to look at a pile of old stones and be told this used to be a fortress , but to actually hear real  people talking about the bread queue they were standing in being blown to bits is history, alive and kicking, and a visit to this museum really ties in the pieces of all of the military history that makes Cartagena what it is today, so yes, we'd recommend it .

 

It's interesting to follow the Military trail around Cartagena, and piece together the turbulent past that lies behind the tranquil fachada . There are still lots more pieces to add, but these are the sites that tie in together so far.

Castillo de la Concepcion- Mediaeval construction, with cannons and excellent views, Castillo de Concepcion.

Fuerte de Navidad, Cartagena, part of the O'Donnell Fortifications, via Navantia shipyards, Fuerte de Navidad

Museo Militar - Home of the military museum, containing many important items of local military interest. Museo Militar

Cabo de Tinosa batteries, between Mazarron and Cartagena, Bateria de Castillitos and El Jorel

 

Cartagena tourist information in English

Use the search functions on the left hand side of the page to find other interesting things to do in Cartagena.For concerts, exhibitions, art, music and fiestas, click here for what's on. Again, you can search by town location or topic using the search bars across the top.

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